Saturday, February 11, 2012

Politics and Camel

It has been really busy around here lately and February is a big month in Kuwait. The country is all lit up with lights and decorations along the streets, houses, local businesses and entire buildings throughout the financial district. The 25th and 26th of this month are National Day and Liberation day, respectively. This year will mark 51 years since Kuwait was released from British protection of it's borders, and 21 years of their independence from Iraq, in 1991. National Day is the most celebrated holiday in this country.

Outside the House

Recently last week there were also Parliament Elections. Typically, elections are held every four years, unless they can't agree or are having issues. In that case, the Parliament will shut down, and hold re-elections. Apparently there have been many issues with this in recent years, as the Parliament has held elections approximately five times over the past six years.

After the day after the elections, I was in the car with my boy Rasheed, and saw a few men cutting into a dead camel on someones driveway. Apparently, this is a huge honor, and it was there because that man had been elected to the Parliament. I wish I had been able to take a photo. HOWEVER, as a side, I did go visit some Camels in Messila just the other day....
Look at that runway walk
Female Camels are lighter, like this



And coincidentally was forced to TRY camel that night at a dinner party... for the record... it's not half bad if you can get past that idea that you are, in fact, eating camel. Tastes a lot like lamb.


Anyway, in Kuwait, the Al-Sabah family has ruled and been the royal family in Kuwait for.ev.er, since 1752. So the "Emir" (President) is always an Al-Sabah, as is the Crown Prince and the Prime Minister. Then you have the Parliament members who are elected by anyone of Kuwaiti nationality. Many Saudi's have dual nationality, (because of they are family members with certain "tribes" in Kuwait (don't have a full grasp on this yet) and some 26,000 people crossed the border to vote on the election day.

The Emir is nominated by members of the family council, and the original merchants and prominent Kuwaiti families. This position is not hereditary per say, but the family will choose a new leader from a succeeding generation. Although it rarely happens, the Parliament does have the right to disapprove of the Emir's appointment. The Emir does not have a house that every Emir lives in, like the White House. They will just stay in their own house. Emir, like a King, will stay in power until they pass.

During the Iraqi evasion, the Iraqi's made the former Emir's palace in Messila a base. So when the Al-Sabah family members returned, the palace had been destroyed and set on fire, etc. Many people had lost their lives and been tortured. So, they had the entire palace (housing parents and children and grandchildren, etc) leveled so that people would not drive by and remember the palace as a place where their family members or people they knew were killed and tortured. Then the land was then divided up and individual houses for the Al-Sabah family members were then built. Many of the people from that branch of the family still live in the area which is now neighborhood-like area for a large, extended family. Everyone knows everyone, well because they're all related.

Most Muslims are Sunnis as in Qatar, Saudi Arabia and in the United Arab Emirates. Iran was like this as well until the 70's when they felt it was too liberal and western, now you will find mostly Shi'tes in Iran. Shi'tes are the second largest denomination of Islam and are highly conservative and have some differences in their belief systems.
My favorite Mosque in Kuwait. Gorgeous.

Kuwaiti's will also refer to the "Bedouin's", which are the tribal population in Kuwait. Things start to get confusing for me right about there. It's really interesting though, and it's funny to be in the middle of the mall and even when you seen men and women walking around in traditional clothing Kuwaiti's are able to differentiate between Saudi's, Egyptians, Emirates... etc based on their skin color or the exact way they wear their clothing, or different types of collars. This is a skill I am yet to acquire and feel is probably not in the cards for me.

I've also been brushing up on my Arabic. I'm able to follow some conversations a little better, if I know the context. In Kuwait, when you enter a room or a house, or in general are greeting someone you say "Salam Alaikum" which means "May Peace be upon you". Apparently, this is a must. If someone says this to you, you MUST say "Wa Alaikum Asalam", which essentially is saying "the same you to you". Also greeting means everyone will give kisses. Two cheeks. I'm getting better after  a few awkward nose grazes here and there. So embarrassing.  However, you never kiss at the table. The first thing the kids will do when they come to your house will come say Salam and give you kisses. Also, out of respect, whenever a parent or someone of an older generation comes into a room, everyone will stand to greet them. I like it. Kuwaitis also don't general hug or say goodbye. They will "Ma asalama" which means more like go safely on your way/may God watch over you.

Two weeks ago I went for lunch at the Kuwait Towers with my host and the director of the Kuwait Dream Center which is like a preschool/nursery for children with special needs. The towers are beautiful and right on the sea. One of them is actually a water tower, and the other has a lounge, a restaurant and an observation deck. This is Kuwait's big national landmark. It was destroyed during the evasion and then redone.


Hey Kuwait Tower elevator attendant




photos of destruction during the invasion



they made me.



And.... here are some random photos from my trip thus far:


CATS are everywhere. Like squirrels.

they <3 Obama

Not a chance in hell



Horse eating scarf


Presentation at American International School
(where they sang John Denver's Country Roads) A-mazing.

Sunset at Chalet



Leaving tonight for Thailand on "holiday". Be back on the 20th!

xo Mary



Tuesday, January 31, 2012

For the love of food. and desserts. a.lot.of.desserts.

The million dollar question, as I probably already mentioned, has been.. So how do you like Kuwait?? I usually say that  I like it a lot, and that there are enough things that are familiar so I feel comfortable and enough things that are different that I am excited to be learning and experiencing new things. One of the biggest examples of this can be found in restaurants and shopping. Malls are really popular places to go in Kuwait, to hangout and shop, but also to eat. There are probably close to the same number of restaurants as there are stores in the mall. No, not Auntie Anne's Pretzels and McDonald's, but like legit sit down restaurants as well. All the malls here also have an area for children as well. Not  a little section with a small playground and padded walls but more like mini amusement parks.  


Also- side note- customer service is incredible. I've thought about this, and think maybe because I am in a new place and have no idea where things are or where to find exactly what I'm looking for at times, then I've been a little more willing to take advantage of sales people (unlike at home where I'm typically hoping to dodge them). It's been my experience that the employees genuinely care about their service, and I was actually asked to fill out surveys at several stores in the mall and found myself really excited and happy to fill them out. I mean, these people really knew their stuff and I was really pleased about it. It's even more exciting when you get to the register and you pay exactly what you see on the price tag, and not 10% more (ahem, California) for tax.

Back to the food. So I get really excited when I see places such as....



BTW- Urth Caffe is coming. Very.Soon.

But also, there are many "Kuwaiti Concept" restaurants and dessert places here as well. I cannot stop having dessert after each meal. It's honestly a problem. I had breakfast this AM, and immediately craved dessert. I did not actually do it, but the mere fact that it crossed my mind at 930AM is alarming enough.

 So there are a ton of great spots from breakfast to burgers, amongst many of the American chains. Here are some of my faves:



Chocolateness.
Little Chocolate Lava cakes (some with peanut butter) you can throw in the oven. 
Slider Station
Sliders. Amazing salads and fries.
Crowd pleaser- The Obama Burger (Fried chicken)

Slider Station.
Those who have completed the "The Beast Challenge" get their name on this board.
All you have to do is eat a burger the size of your plate comprised of: two 250g patties with bacon, eggs, lettuce, onions, pickles and a special sauce.


Prime and Toast
My new faveeee restaurant.


How cute is this menu?





Thyme and Rosemary along the walls


They made me. Super cheesy was the best I could do.

Brioche French Toast. To.Die.For.



The Living Room Lounge





Of course I got dessert after lunch... and swore that meant I wasn't having dessert after dinner.

Until I met this Pumpkin Cake. And had not one, but two pieces.





 
At restaurants and at home, this is a Kuwaiti dessert called Kanafa. It's basically cream, fried noodles, syrup and crushed pistachios. It's interesting... not my favorite, but I was encouraged to try it..

On top of this, Kuwaiti's love coffee and tea. like a lot. I'm talking 3 to 5 cups a day. I'm now trying to limit myself so I can actually sleep before 1 AM.


 Basically, thank goodness for the 10K and for the beautttiful day on Saturday. I am continuing to try to do my own personal 10k a few times a week so I can actually really take in all of this food and dessert without having to buy a new wardrobe. Just really trying to get the full cultural experience, you know.


Rasheed!! Finally. Also- his wife had her baby GIRL!

My hosts love making me take photos whenever we see an American flag. Luckily,  we were not quick enough to awkwardly pose behind the man in the white jean jacket with a huge American flag on the back...
Publish Post
Pretty kites by the sea.


xo Mary